2009 - Tuscany

We visited Italy in May of 2007, but it was an rapid-paced tour of the most popular cities - Rome, Venice, Florence, etc. And a blanketing fog had obscured much of the famed Tuscan landscap ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:41:11 -0700

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We visited Italy in May of 2007, but it was an rapid-paced tour of the most popular cities - Rome, Venice, Florence, etc. And a blanketing fog had obscured much of the famed Tuscan landscap ...

Our hotel was in Montecatini Terme, roughly midway between Pisa and Florence. From this base, our objective was to revisit two cities from our past trip (Pisa and Florence),explore several ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 08:44:41 -0700

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Our hotel was in Montecatini Terme, roughly midway between Pisa and Florence. From this base, our objective was to revisit two cities from our past trip (Pisa and Florence),explore several ...

In 2007 Pisa was veiled in grey, overhanging clouds. In 2009 the weather was much different...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:18:45 -0700

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In 2007 Pisa was veiled in grey, overhanging clouds. In 2009 the weather was much different...

A bright sun in a cloudless sky greeted us this time.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 06:38:28 -0700

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A bright sun in a cloudless sky greeted us this time.

The "Field of Miracles" with its famous Tower and the adjacent Cathedral and Baptistery were sparkling white under the blue Tuscan sky.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:36:30 -0700

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The "Field of Miracles" with its famous Tower and the adjacent Cathedral and Baptistery were sparkling white under the blue Tuscan sky.

For the first part of our visit, we took many of the standard tourist "postcard" photos - noting that the Tower's mid-section was girded in scaffolding. (Two years earlier, there had also b ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:28:00 -0700

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For the first part of our visit, we took many of the standard tourist "postcard" photos - noting that the Tower's mid-section was girded in scaffolding. (Two years earlier, there had also b ...

The emerald lawn of Il Campo dei Miracoli - The Field of Miracles - was filled with sun-seeking tourists.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:27:44 -0700

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The emerald lawn of Il Campo dei Miracoli - The Field of Miracles - was filled with sun-seeking tourists.

It seemed to us that the tower's lean was even more pronounced than we remembered it - but we were assured that was not the case. It's still intriquing to realize that in 1278, when the tow ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:40:17 -0700

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It seemed to us that the tower's lean was even more pronounced than we remembered it - but we were assured that was not the case. It's still intriquing to realize that in 1278, when the tow ...

Many visitors to Pisa's Field of Miracles focus on the famed Leaning Tower and fail to notice other works of art, such as the cherubs ringing the pedestal of a marble fountain nearby....

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:27:27 -0700

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Many visitors to Pisa's Field of Miracles focus on the famed Leaning Tower and fail to notice other works of art, such as the cherubs ringing the pedestal of a marble fountain nearby....

...or the assortment of stone heads - both large and small - that adorn the facade of the Baptistery.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:33:11 -0700

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...or the assortment of stone heads - both large and small - that adorn the facade of the Baptistery.

In 2007 we had time only for a quick walk around the perimeter of the piazza's main buildings. Now we had the opportunity to explore the interiors of two of the structures. We began with t ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:32:10 -0700

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In 2007 we had time only for a quick walk around the perimeter of the piazza's main buildings. Now we had the opportunity to explore the interiors of two of the structures. We began with t ...

Pisans were able to finance the construction of the Cathedral (Duomo) when they came into possession of a boat-load of booty ransacked from the Muslim-held capital of Palermo, Sicily. When ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:28:34 -0700

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Pisans were able to finance the construction of the Cathedral (Duomo) when they came into possession of a boat-load of booty ransacked from the Muslim-held capital of Palermo, Sicily. When ...

The gilded coffered ceiling has shields of the powerful Medici family of the Renaissance era - although they were difficult to pick out among the intricate patterns. Although they hailed fr ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:43:40 -0700

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The gilded coffered ceiling has shields of the powerful Medici family of the Renaissance era - although they were difficult to pick out among the intricate patterns. Although they hailed fr ...

The "gem" inside the Cathedral is the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano in the 1300s with its 400 intricate 3-dimensional figures.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:29:25 -0700

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The "gem" inside the Cathedral is the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano in the 1300s with its 400 intricate 3-dimensional figures.

Giovanni had learned to sculpt from his father Nicola, but ultimately he surpassed his dad, and armed with more sophisticated chisels, he could cut deeper into the marble, creating almost fr ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:29:45 -0700

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Giovanni had learned to sculpt from his father Nicola, but ultimately he surpassed his dad, and armed with more sophisticated chisels, he could cut deeper into the marble, creating almost fr ...

A young Galileo is believed to have formulated his theory about the movement of a pendulum by watching the swinging of the incense lamp hanging from the ceiling of the nave. Unfortunately, ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:30:38 -0700

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A young Galileo is believed to have formulated his theory about the movement of a pendulum by watching the swinging of the incense lamp hanging from the ceiling of the nave. Unfortunately, ...

As in most medieval cathedrals, there is the requisite dead person. In this case, Pisa's patron saint, Saint Ranieri (a former troubadour who turned to the monkhood) lies mummified in a gla ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:30:19 -0700

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As in most medieval cathedrals, there is the requisite dead person. In this case, Pisa's patron saint, Saint Ranieri (a former troubadour who turned to the monkhood) lies mummified in a gla ...

Our next stop was the Baptistery begun in the mid 12th century and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It is the largest baptistery in Italy. Taking into account the statue of St. John the ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:29:10 -0700

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Our next stop was the Baptistery begun in the mid 12th century and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It is the largest baptistery in Italy. Taking into account the statue of St. John the ...

Inside, the Baptistery is spacious but simple, almost austere. But there are some who believe the design had other purposes than simply to house the octagonal font for baptizing. Recent co ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:31:29 -0700

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Inside, the Baptistery is spacious but simple, almost austere. But there are some who believe the design had other purposes than simply to house the octagonal font for baptizing. Recent co ...

The Baptistery's pulpit was carved by Nicola Pisano, the father of Giovanni (who carved the pulpit of the Cathedral). Some scholars belief it is the first sculpture of the Renaissance. Its ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:30:36 -0700

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The Baptistery's pulpit was carved by Nicola Pisano, the father of Giovanni (who carved the pulpit of the Cathedral). Some scholars belief it is the first sculpture of the Renaissance. Its ...

With the luxury of time, we had the opportunity to climb the 75 steps to the interior gallery for....

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:32:34 -0700

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With the luxury of time, we had the opportunity to climb the 75 steps to the interior gallery for....

...an impressive, if somewhat acrophobic, view back down on the baptismal font.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:32:03 -0700

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...an impressive, if somewhat acrophobic, view back down on the baptismal font.

When we toured Pisa in 2007 we paid little attention to the long white building with a nondescript entrance that borders the Field of Miracles. Then, afterwards, I wondered where the Campos ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:39:36 -0700

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When we toured Pisa in 2007 we paid little attention to the long white building with a nondescript entrance that borders the Field of Miracles. Then, afterwards, I wondered where the Campos ...

Inside is an open-air courtyard surrounded by an arcade of marble arches. The courtyard's grass grows on a special dirt that legend says was brought to Pisa by the Crusaders from the Holy L ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:38:15 -0700

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Inside is an open-air courtyard surrounded by an arcade of marble arches. The courtyard's grass grows on a special dirt that legend says was brought to Pisa by the Crusaders from the Holy L ...

There's been a cemetary on this spot since the days of the Roman Empire, and around the arcade there are dozens of ancient Roman sarcophagi. Jeanne checked to see if any still held any dead ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:36:54 -0700

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There's been a cemetary on this spot since the days of the Roman Empire, and around the arcade there are dozens of ancient Roman sarcophagi. Jeanne checked to see if any still held any dead ...

The arcade floor is paved with the coats-of-arms of some 600 departed Pisans, and amazingly, very few of the engravings were protected from the thousands of visitor's feet that have worn dow ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:37:17 -0700

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The arcade floor is paved with the coats-of-arms of some 600 departed Pisans, and amazingly, very few of the engravings were protected from the thousands of visitor's feet that have worn dow ...

The huge chains at one end once stretched across the mouth of Pisa's harbor to prevent enemy ships from attacking. But those pesky Genoans broke the chains, then carried them off as war tro ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:37:39 -0700

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The huge chains at one end once stretched across the mouth of Pisa's harbor to prevent enemy ships from attacking. But those pesky Genoans broke the chains, then carried them off as war tro ...

The cemetary's oldest object is this ochre-colored Green tombstone, dating from the 4th century B.C. It shows a woman seated who has just given birth to the baby that is now in the attendan ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:38:16 -0700

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The cemetary's oldest object is this ochre-colored Green tombstone, dating from the 4th century B.C. It shows a woman seated who has just given birth to the baby that is now in the attendan ...

Once the interior walls of the arcade were painted with colorful frescoes. In the summer of 1944, however, during World War II, the Camposanto Cemetary was hit by an American incendiary gre ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:38:57 -0700

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Once the interior walls of the arcade were painted with colorful frescoes. In the summer of 1944, however, during World War II, the Camposanto Cemetary was hit by an American incendiary gre ...

Some of the restored (but badly damaged) frescoes have now been relocated into an adjoining exhibit room, including the 1000-square foot Triumph of Death, which depicts the calamity of the b ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 05:45:17 -0700

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Some of the restored (but badly damaged) frescoes have now been relocated into an adjoining exhibit room, including the 1000-square foot Triumph of Death, which depicts the calamity of the b ...

A closeup of one corner of the massive frescoe shows well-dressed ladies and gents riding gaily through the countryside when they confronted by three coffins containing victims of the plague ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 05:45:29 -0700

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A closeup of one corner of the massive frescoe shows well-dressed ladies and gents riding gaily through the countryside when they confronted by three coffins containing victims of the plague ...

As we exited the Camposanto we came upon this marble bust - nothing particularly unusual about it, except that it bore a striking resemblance to a friend of our's. What do you think, Dennis ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:39:14 -0700

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As we exited the Camposanto we came upon this marble bust - nothing particularly unusual about it, except that it bore a striking resemblance to a friend of our's. What do you think, Dennis ...

Few tourists ever venture beyond Pisa's Field of Miracles, and in 2007 neither did we. Since then we wondered what the actual town of Pisa looked like. Turns out, it's a picturesque Tuscan ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:34:27 -0700

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Few tourists ever venture beyond Pisa's Field of Miracles, and in 2007 neither did we. Since then we wondered what the actual town of Pisa looked like. Turns out, it's a picturesque Tuscan ...

The pedestrian-only (exception: motorbikes and bicycles) shopping street (Borgo Stretto) was a pleasant alternative to the tourist-packed Field of Miracles.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:33:23 -0700

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The pedestrian-only (exception: motorbikes and bicycles) shopping street (Borgo Stretto) was a pleasant alternative to the tourist-packed Field of Miracles.

Our stroll led us to the Ponte di Messo bridge that spans the Arno River. The bridge is a modern one built on the same site as an ancient Roman bridge.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:34:42 -0700

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Our stroll led us to the Ponte di Messo bridge that spans the Arno River. The bridge is a modern one built on the same site as an ancient Roman bridge.

We veered off the main street to the Piazza Vettovaglie and encountered a small but well-stocked open-air produce market.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:34:57 -0700

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We veered off the main street to the Piazza Vettovaglie and encountered a small but well-stocked open-air produce market.

The political center of medieval Pisa was the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights' Square), today an expanse of concrete bordered on one side by the Palazzo della Carovana, the palace of the Knig ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:33:40 -0700

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The political center of medieval Pisa was the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights' Square), today an expanse of concrete bordered on one side by the Palazzo della Carovana, the palace of the Knig ...

In front of the palace stands the large statue of Cosimo I de Medici commissioned in 1596. Today the Palazzo della Carovana houses the main building of the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:36:06 -0700

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In front of the palace stands the large statue of Cosimo I de Medici commissioned in 1596. Today the Palazzo della Carovana houses the main building of the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, ...

Our stroll through the streets of Pisa gave Jeanne the opportunity to do two things she likes best: shop for scarves....

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:35:11 -0700

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Our stroll through the streets of Pisa gave Jeanne the opportunity to do two things she likes best: shop for scarves....

...and sip a glass of wine with lunch at a sidewalk cafè.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:35:51 -0700

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...and sip a glass of wine with lunch at a sidewalk cafè.

One last look at the Cathedral and the Leaning Tower before we departed Pisa.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:40:11 -0700

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One last look at the Cathedral and the Leaning Tower before we departed Pisa.

We wanted to spend much of our second visit to Italy exploring "typical" Tuscan towns. And you can't get much more typical than Lucca, 30 kilometers northeast of Pisa (we took the train fro ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:42:08 -0700

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We wanted to spend much of our second visit to Italy exploring "typical" Tuscan towns. And you can't get much more typical than Lucca, 30 kilometers northeast of Pisa (we took the train fro ...

Lucca's walls date back to the 16th century. Nearly 100 feet wide, the walls were never put to the test against an enemy army, though they turned out to be excellent dikes. The walls saved ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:51:16 -0700

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Lucca's walls date back to the 16th century. Nearly 100 feet wide, the walls were never put to the test against an enemy army, though they turned out to be excellent dikes. The walls saved ...

Modern-day Lucca has spread beyond its walls, but when we entered the old city through the Porta Santa Maria gate, built in 1593, it was like stepping back 400 years or more.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:51:45 -0700

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Modern-day Lucca has spread beyond its walls, but when we entered the old city through the Porta Santa Maria gate, built in 1593, it was like stepping back 400 years or more.

Today with the walls no longer particularly useful for defense of the city, they have been turned into one of Tuscany's great city walkways - a 3-mile long bicycle/walking path that complete ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:55:04 -0700

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Today with the walls no longer particularly useful for defense of the city, they have been turned into one of Tuscany's great city walkways - a 3-mile long bicycle/walking path that complete ...

Lucca is also a town punctuated by towers. Lucca was once one of the wealthiest banking and silk trading towns in Europe, and the trademark of its richest residents were the "Case-Torri" (T ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:55:04 -0700

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Lucca is also a town punctuated by towers. Lucca was once one of the wealthiest banking and silk trading towns in Europe, and the trademark of its richest residents were the "Case-Torri" (T ...

Today, only a few of the towers remain. An influential family falling on hard times was likely to find its tower decapitated in demonstration of its fall in fortunes!

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:07:38 -0700

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Today, only a few of the towers remain. An influential family falling on hard times was likely to find its tower decapitated in demonstration of its fall in fortunes!

Lucca's most notable tower is the Torre Guinigi - the Guinigi Tower - the only remaining of four towers built by a family that ruled Lucca for a part of the 15th century.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:07:49 -0700

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Lucca's most notable tower is the Torre Guinigi - the Guinigi Tower - the only remaining of four towers built by a family that ruled Lucca for a part of the 15th century.

What makes this residence stand out are the oak trees that grow from its top. The story goes that because Lucca's water table is very close to the surface, there were strict laws prohibitin ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:59:25 -0700

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What makes this residence stand out are the oak trees that grow from its top. The story goes that because Lucca's water table is very close to the surface, there were strict laws prohibitin ...

Lucca also has its share of church bell towers like the crenellated bell-tower, finished in the 13th century, next to the Duomo.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:08:08 -0700

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Lucca also has its share of church bell towers like the crenellated bell-tower, finished in the 13th century, next to the Duomo.

In the northern section of old Lucca we came across the architectural ghost of an ancient Roman amphitheater. When Rome fell, its stones were cannibalized for many of the buildings and towe ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:52:33 -0700

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In the northern section of old Lucca we came across the architectural ghost of an ancient Roman amphitheater. When Rome fell, its stones were cannibalized for many of the buildings and towe ...

Lucca also was once a village of more than 70 medieval churches.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:58:10 -0700

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Lucca also was once a village of more than 70 medieval churches.

The Basilica of San Frediano dates back to the period 1112-1147. In the 13th-14th centuries the striking façade was decorated with a huge golden 13th century mosaic entitled The Ascension o ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:52:55 -0700

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The Basilica of San Frediano dates back to the period 1112-1147. In the 13th-14th centuries the striking façade was decorated with a huge golden 13th century mosaic entitled The Ascension o ...

From the top of the city walls, the massive bulk of the Basilica di San Frediano and its belltower becomes more evident.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:55:48 -0700

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From the top of the city walls, the massive bulk of the Basilica di San Frediano and its belltower becomes more evident.

The most noticeable church in Lucca is the Cathedral of St Martin (Duomo) begun in 1063 by Bishop Anselm (later Pope Alexander II). Interestingly, the belltower (campanile) was built first, ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:56:16 -0700

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The most noticeable church in Lucca is the Cathedral of St Martin (Duomo) begun in 1063 by Bishop Anselm (later Pope Alexander II). Interestingly, the belltower (campanile) was built first, ...

One of the most photographed churches in Lucca is San Michele in Foro, built over the city's ancient Roman forum. The church is mentioned for the first time in 795 AD. Its upper facade giv ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:56:43 -0700

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One of the most photographed churches in Lucca is San Michele in Foro, built over the city's ancient Roman forum. The church is mentioned for the first time in 795 AD. Its upper facade giv ...

The church stands in an enormous square where the sky opens up from narrow, winding medieval streets. Pilgrims making their way through town would have seen a sight like this - a gleaming w ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 15:27:34 -0700

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The church stands in an enormous square where the sky opens up from narrow, winding medieval streets. Pilgrims making their way through town would have seen a sight like this - a gleaming w ...

Crowning the church's facade is the archangel Michael ready to flap his wings. Historical accounts report that the movement of the wings never failed to awe the assembled masses in the squa ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:57:07 -0700

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Crowning the church's facade is the archangel Michael ready to flap his wings. Historical accounts report that the movement of the wings never failed to awe the assembled masses in the squa ...

...who apparently were oblivious to the staircase behind the facade that allowed church officials to manipulate cables rigged to the statue's wings.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 15:27:29 -0700

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...who apparently were oblivious to the staircase behind the facade that allowed church officials to manipulate cables rigged to the statue's wings.

Every single column of the San Michele facade is different; some are elaborately carved, others are twisted and spiralling.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 08:23:24 -0700

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Every single column of the San Michele facade is different; some are elaborately carved, others are twisted and spiralling.

On the lower right corner of the façade is a statue (1480) of the Virgin Mary sculpted by Matteo Civitali to celebrate the end of the 1476 plague.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 08:23:36 -0700

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On the lower right corner of the façade is a statue (1480) of the Virgin Mary sculpted by Matteo Civitali to celebrate the end of the 1476 plague.

Lucca rightfully prides itself as a unblemished town with an air of old artistic charm.. As we wandered its back streets, it was not unusual to come upon outdoor art fairs along alleyways a ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:54:15 -0700

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Lucca rightfully prides itself as a unblemished town with an air of old artistic charm.. As we wandered its back streets, it was not unusual to come upon outdoor art fairs along alleyways a ...

Lucca 's most famous son was the composer Giacomo Puccini (Madame Butterfly, the aria Nessun Dorma, etc.).

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:51:12 -0700

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Lucca 's most famous son was the composer Giacomo Puccini (Madame Butterfly, the aria Nessun Dorma, etc.).

Puccini's statue sits in a small, out-of-the-way piazza in front of his home.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:58:10 -0700

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Puccini's statue sits in a small, out-of-the-way piazza in front of his home.

The picturesque Caffe de Simo apparently hasn't changed much since Puccini sipped coffee there in the 1880s.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 04:53:48 -0700

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The picturesque Caffe de Simo apparently hasn't changed much since Puccini sipped coffee there in the 1880s.

And speaking of sipping, at the end of a hot day of exploring Lucca's charms, we settled into an outdoor cafe near the Piazza Napoleone for a cold Italian beer.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:36:42 -0700

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And speaking of sipping, at the end of a hot day of exploring Lucca's charms, we settled into an outdoor cafe near the Piazza Napoleone for a cold Italian beer.

Our first attempt to navigate the backroads of northern Tuscany took us to the small village of Vinci, about 20 kilometers from our home base at Montecatini.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:41:50 -0700

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Our first attempt to navigate the backroads of northern Tuscany took us to the small village of Vinci, about 20 kilometers from our home base at Montecatini.

Entering the village - Jeanne at the wheel - we encountered a procession of bright red Ferraris. Not content to wait, Jeanne used the town's only stoplight to pull into the middle of them, ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:03:29 -0700

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Entering the village - Jeanne at the wheel - we encountered a procession of bright red Ferraris. Not content to wait, Jeanne used the town's only stoplight to pull into the middle of them, ...

Vinci's centerpiece is the Conti Guidi Castle (Castle of the Guidi Counts) which dates back to the height of the Middle Ages around the year 1000. Today, the castle houses the Museo Leonardi ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:05:29 -0700

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Vinci's centerpiece is the Conti Guidi Castle (Castle of the Guidi Counts) which dates back to the height of the Middle Ages around the year 1000. Today, the castle houses the Museo Leonardi ...

In the square opposite the castle, "The Man from Vinci", a large wooden sculpture inspired by Leonardo's Vitruvian man, had been erected in 1987.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:04:25 -0700

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In the square opposite the castle, "The Man from Vinci", a large wooden sculpture inspired by Leonardo's Vitruvian man, had been erected in 1987.

Due to the castle's rennovation, many of the exhibits - mostly wooden models fabricated from Leonardo's sketches - had been relocated to the visitor's center. Photographs were not allowed, ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:02:31 -0700

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Due to the castle's rennovation, many of the exhibits - mostly wooden models fabricated from Leonardo's sketches - had been relocated to the visitor's center. Photographs were not allowed, ...

In the interior of Vinci's Conti Guidi Castle is the baptismal font where Leonardo da Vinci is said to have been baptized.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:02:34 -0700

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In the interior of Vinci's Conti Guidi Castle is the baptismal font where Leonardo da Vinci is said to have been baptized.

Outside Vinci's medieval castle and church is the very strange and definitely out-of-place Piazza dei Guidi - a good example of what can happen when a designer (in this case, Mimmo Paladino) ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 05:47:48 -0700

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Outside Vinci's medieval castle and church is the very strange and definitely out-of-place Piazza dei Guidi - a good example of what can happen when a designer (in this case, Mimmo Paladino) ...

Outside the Guidi Count Castle, there's not much else to see in the old town itself. We walked down some of its narrow lanes around noon time and found that most of the village's 14,000 inh ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:06:01 -0700

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Outside the Guidi Count Castle, there's not much else to see in the old town itself. We walked down some of its narrow lanes around noon time and found that most of the village's 14,000 inh ...

So, taking a cue from the locals, we stopped at a garden cafe for lunch. (Contrary to the photo's appearance, we also had food with our wine.)

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:36:39 -0700

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So, taking a cue from the locals, we stopped at a garden cafe for lunch. (Contrary to the photo's appearance, we also had food with our wine.)

The village of Vinci is situated within a landscape of hills, vineyards and olive orchards that has changed little since the time of Leonardo. When you walk through the old town and admire t ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:03:44 -0700

1000places
The village of Vinci is situated within a landscape of hills, vineyards and olive orchards that has changed little since the time of Leonardo. When you walk through the old town and admire t ...

But we weren't content to see just the landscape of Leonardo; we wanted to see his actual birthplace. Turns out that Leonardo wasn't actually born in Vinci but in the even smaller village ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:08:49 -0700

1000places
But we weren't content to see just the landscape of Leonardo; we wanted to see his actual birthplace. Turns out that Leonardo wasn't actually born in Vinci but in the even smaller village ...

The poppies were in full bloom, along with several varieties of wild flowers....

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:07:58 -0700

1000places
The poppies were in full bloom, along with several varieties of wild flowers....

...but what the guidebooks didn't tell us that the walk was all uphill, and only "mad dogs and Englishmen" would make the trek beneath the hot midday sun, as we did. Moreover, we found at t ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 05:01:46 -0700

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...but what the guidebooks didn't tell us that the walk was all uphill, and only "mad dogs and Englishmen" would make the trek beneath the hot midday sun, as we did. Moreover, we found at t ...

Leonardo was born on April 15, 1492, in this rather plain farmhouse situation on a hilltop in Anchiano. His family had lived in this area since the 13th century. When we arrived, after our ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:07:01 -0700

1000places
Leonardo was born on April 15, 1492, in this rather plain farmhouse situation on a hilltop in Anchiano. His family had lived in this area since the 13th century. When we arrived, after our ...

The house's interior rooms were about as plain as its stone exterior.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:05:23 -0700

1000places
The house's interior rooms were about as plain as its stone exterior.

The only ornamentation on the house was the Vinci seal above one of the windows....

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:07:10 -0700

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The only ornamentation on the house was the Vinci seal above one of the windows....

...and except for a small sign at the entrance, this small stone monument was the only indication that the farmhouse was the birthplace of the greatest of Renaissance men.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 05:34:39 -0700

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...and except for a small sign at the entrance, this small stone monument was the only indication that the farmhouse was the birthplace of the greatest of Renaissance men.

After a brief tour around the homestead, it was time to begin the walk back to the village of Vinci. This sign indicated it was only 20 minutes away.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:07:21 -0700

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After a brief tour around the homestead, it was time to begin the walk back to the village of Vinci. This sign indicated it was only 20 minutes away.

The walk down the path was much more pleasant than the ascent up it - primarily because it was downhill and afforded great views of the village of Vinci.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:08:58 -0700

1000places
The walk down the path was much more pleasant than the ascent up it - primarily because it was downhill and afforded great views of the village of Vinci.

A look from the hillside at the pleasant little village of Vinci set amidst the Tuscan hills.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:08:39 -0700

1000places
A look from the hillside at the pleasant little village of Vinci set amidst the Tuscan hills.

A few words about our home base - Montecatini Terme. a village nestled in the shadows of the Tuscany hills 34 miles from Pisa.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:42:12 -0700

1000places
A few words about our home base - Montecatini Terme. a village nestled in the shadows of the Tuscany hills 34 miles from Pisa.

The "terme" in Montecatini Terme means "spa." This is one of the most renowned spa cities in Italy. The first baths were built in 1540. Today during the peak spa season, the population swell ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:11:58 -0700

1000places
The "terme" in Montecatini Terme means "spa." This is one of the most renowned spa cities in Italy. The first baths were built in 1540. Today during the peak spa season, the population swell ...

Our first evening in Montecatini Terme, we found an outdoor wine bar. Little did we know that it may have been one of the very few the town has.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:10:36 -0700

1000places
Our first evening in Montecatini Terme, we found an outdoor wine bar. Little did we know that it may have been one of the very few the town has.

There were also very few easy-to-find restaurants. Most of the eating establishments in the town are associated with the scores of hotels. Other than the dozens of gelaterias (ice cream pa ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:18:14 -0700

1000places
There were also very few easy-to-find restaurants. Most of the eating establishments in the town are associated with the scores of hotels. Other than the dozens of gelaterias (ice cream pa ...

Had we stayed in Montecatini longer (and had a refrigerator), the salumeria looked to be a good place for a quick bite, or to stock up on the extensive variety of Italian meats and cold cuts ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:17:14 -0700

1000places
Had we stayed in Montecatini longer (and had a refrigerator), the salumeria looked to be a good place for a quick bite, or to stock up on the extensive variety of Italian meats and cold cuts ...

Desserts, however, abounded in Montecatini. Not only were there gelaterias every few feet, but also a large supply of tempting pastries, chocolates, and other assorted calorie-intensive del ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:17:16 -0700

1000places
Desserts, however, abounded in Montecatini. Not only were there gelaterias every few feet, but also a large supply of tempting pastries, chocolates, and other assorted calorie-intensive del ...

Montecatini Terme also boasts a large urban park which seemed to be the gathering place for older gentlemen to gather in the afternoon to discuss current events.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:12:03 -0700

1000places
Montecatini Terme also boasts a large urban park which seemed to be the gathering place for older gentlemen to gather in the afternoon to discuss current events.

At night, the main section of town became somewhat more animated (but remember, we were there before the peak vacation season).

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:11:12 -0700

1000places
At night, the main section of town became somewhat more animated (but remember, we were there before the peak vacation season).

For the younger set, THE "place to be" on a Saturday night was the Gambrinus outdoor "music cafè." We arrived early and found a table before the tide of younger people flooded in.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:37:08 -0700

1000places
For the younger set, THE "place to be" on a Saturday night was the Gambrinus outdoor "music cafè." We arrived early and found a table before the tide of younger people flooded in.

The outdoor cafe/bar became an evening music and light show after the sun went down.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:18:22 -0700

1000places
The outdoor cafe/bar became an evening music and light show after the sun went down.

Montecatini Terme in the valley might be one of Italy's most famous spa cities, but to us its real attraction was high on the overlooking hillside - Montecatini Alto, the "old village."

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:13:17 -0700

1000places
Montecatini Terme in the valley might be one of Italy's most famous spa cities, but to us its real attraction was high on the overlooking hillside - Montecatini Alto, the "old village."

The defensive works of Montecatini Alto date back to 1016

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:14:04 -0700

1000places
The defensive works of Montecatini Alto date back to 1016

To reach Montecatini Alto, we boarded a funicular - a small rail train that ascended the steep hillside every half hour.

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:17:16 -0700

1000places
To reach Montecatini Alto, we boarded a funicular - a small rail train that ascended the steep hillside every half hour.

At the top we found an array of medieval buildings, including the remains of a castle, a few palazzos and several churches, all situated along winding and narrow streets evocative of an age ...

nobody@smugmug.com (1000places) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 05:15:29 -0700

1000places
At the top we found an array of medieval buildings, including the remains of a castle, a few palazzos and several churches, all situated along winding and narrow streets evocative of an age ...